Malga Campo – An Off-Grid Escape in Val di Fumo

Why I Stayed Here

After a long day hiking through Val di Fumo, I reached Malga Campo just as the sun dipped behind the peaks. The silence was unreal — only cowbells, wind, and distant waterfalls filled the air.

This isn’t a place you stumble upon by accident. You have to earn it.

It’s about an hour’s walk from the last road, and that makes arriving feel even more special. The trail opens onto a wide green clearing, and suddenly there it is: the malga, humble and solid, nestled in the folds of the mountains.

What made me choose it? The promise of simplicity. A real break.

But it gave me much more than that.

The outdoor space is a dream — wooden benches under the open sky, with a sweeping view of the entire valley. In the evening, you can just sit outside with a glass of red wine, watching the last light fade behind the granite cliffs. It’s a kind of stillness that’s hard to describe unless you’ve felt it.

Inside, it’s warm and welcoming. The dining room smells of wood smoke and melted butter.

Dinner was one of the best meals I’ve ever had in the mountains: polenta so creamy it melted on the tongue, stewed meat cooked slowly for hours, and fresh alpine cheese made right there on-site. All served by smiling, generous hosts who make you feel more like a friend than a guest.

I didn’t even miss the phone signal. That night, under a sky full of stars, with just a wool blanket and tired legs, I felt completely full — of food, of nature, of peace.